Vintage is the height of fashion, but for some it comes with added baggage | Vintage fashion

As I admired my reflection in the mirror, a gross sales assistant advised me the gown I used to be attempting on was a highly regarded choose amongst the retailer’s clientele, but most left the store disillusioned. It wouldn’t zip up round the bust. Having lastly discovered a benefit to my smallish chest – which appears unchanged from after I was 15, as the relaxation of my physique will get wider and softer – I dedicated.

I discovered the gown at The Vintage Clothes Store in Sydney’s St James Arcade whereas filling in time between giving lectures at a metropolis college. It was a vibrant 70s maxi, with folky floral detailing on that fitted bust, a free and flowing skirt, and the variety of voluminous sleeves that might make a Zimmermann devotee swoon.

The girl was wrapping it up in tissue when she knowledgeable me it was a Norman Hartnell, but I used to be too preoccupied with the feeling of breaking some rule to be remotely enthused by the title. Solely later I found that the designer had as soon as made many of the royal household’s clothes, together with the wedding ceremony robe of Queen Elizabeth II.

Behind the closed doorways of the changeroom, I fantasized about how I’d put on the gown – with boho-style hair and my tan See by Chloé platforms. But now, some 18 months later, it nonetheless hangs in my wardrobe principally unworn; a mark of transgression towards an unstated cultural rule. And I blame my household for it.


I grew up in a migrant family, all the time conscious that we had been considerably totally different. The best way we ate, celebrated rituals and spoke went towards the norm. But it by no means occurred to me that how we shopped was totally different too, till I used to be 23 and got here house with a classic high. My mother and father insisted I dispose of it. My mom warned that it might be harbouring all types of micro organism and dirt; my father begged me to take some money and purchase one thing new.

“If ever you want something, you inform me,” he’d insisted, urgent a wad of $50 notes into my hand. “Don’t go shopping for used something.”

Again then, I discovered it exhausting to articulate how bizarre it all appeared, but now I perceive. I had subconsciously slighted them and the exhausting work they’d put into offering for my siblings and me. The whole lot from my entry to tertiary schooling to my capacity to journey and revel in fantastic eating places represented one thing that they had disadvantaged themselves of in order that I’d by no means must battle.

Shopping for classic or preloved, to them no less than, was the area of those that struggled. Op-shops and secondhand shops had been the place your undesirable issues went. They weren’t the variety of locations to hit up in case you wanted one thing, not until you had been determined. My shopping for issues from op-shops was seen as a failure on their half, and I couldn’t bear to be complicit of their failings, irrespective of how fictitious they appeared.

Sarah Ayoub says she harbours ‘mixed feelings’ about buying secondhand clothes.
Sarah Ayoub says she harbours ‘blended emotions’ about shopping for secondhand garments. {Photograph}: Carly Earl/The Guardian

I do know I’m not the just one. Conversations with mates who additionally grew up in working-class migrant households indicated comparable misgivings about buying classic. In my neighborhood in western Sydney, folks splash their money: on vehicles, on professionally embellished features like weddings, baptisms and kids’s birthday events, and particularly on clothes. In case you are shopping for secondhand, you aren’t doing effectively sufficient, and the disgrace of that is your loved ones’s in addition to yours.

I’m older and with a household of my very own now, but I nonetheless have blended emotions. Lately, half of it is being complicit in the gentrification of one thing as soon as related with communities who lack means.

In the identical means the suburbs the place Sydney’s migrants initially settled have turn into unrecognisable as a result of the arrival of white, upper-middle-class millennials, shopping for classic now seems to be lots totally different. Instagram and on-line boutiques are brimming with preloved garments that price excess of they’d in an op-shop, leaving solely scraps for those that store used from necessity, slightly than sartorial alternative.

On the uncommon events I’ve visited my native Vinnies – to browse cut price secondhand books, or purchase the variety of classic crockery that makes meals stylists drool – I’ve been cautious to not strategy members of my neighborhood. I as soon as waded via males’s garments racks like a spy, ready for a distant aunt to cross. I had a job and a mortgage and was in there for props, but her circumstances had been very totally different to mine. I used to be saving her the embarrassment of being seen.


Lately, I pop into classic shops with rather less unease. I really feel extra empowered to make selections for the good of the surroundings, and in recognition that many new garments nonetheless don’t fee extremely sufficient in phrases of moral manufacture.

But my 70s gown is nonetheless hanging in my wardrobe, a visible reminder that whereas I’ve come far, there is a lot extra to unpack. I’ve inherited my very own model of the migrant’s battle, and sporting that historical past will all the time be extra of an announcement than any gown, designer or in any other case.

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