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Nigel Slater’s recipes for the Christmas season | Food

You can plan Christmas dinner. A neat listing in black ink on white paper – a roast goose and a figgy pudding; a seating plan and a playlist of carols – however Christmas isn’t about only one meal. There are the smaller feasts to contemplate, meals for particular family and friends who could also be at another person’s desk on Christmas Day. A roast turkey might really feel inappropriate on such events – a bit untimely or over the high – however the occasion should nonetheless be particular. My very own plans (I’m a list-maker) embody a menu that feels proper for any time over the subsequent few weeks, from now until New 12 months’s Eve.

I’m wanting ahead to Christmas greater than ever this yr. The tree will probably be twinkling apart the hearth, its branches laden with outdated baubles and frosty lights; there will probably be presents tied up with golden ribbon and the pudding – wealthy, candy and heady with brandy – will probably be little question be puttering away on the range. Sure, there will probably be the sound of carols, however tucked in the background will probably be the comfortable crackle and hiss of one thing roasting in the oven.

Generally there’s a goose or maybe a turkey, however this yr’s roast each for The Feast and the many different “little feasts” will probably be pork – a neatly rolled loin, its crackling brushed with garlic and rosemary, carved in thick slices with pink cabbage and sauerkraut. (There will probably be somewhat redcurrant jelly and juniper in the recipe too.) It is going to be the centrepiece together with a platter of combined mushrooms and a herbed chickpea cream. I will even be presenting a dish of brussels sprouts, if solely for myself.

There should be pudding, by which I imply the pudding, however its fruity richness isn’t for everybody, so there will probably be a dish of pears in a glistening syrup for those that yearn for one thing lighter. I all the time really feel this meal ought to glitter with wine glasses and candlelight, golden crackling, champagne and sugar frosting. This yr I’m icing biscuits – little gingerbread stars – with which to brighten an alternate cake spiced with ginger and chocolate nuggets. These I don’t use will probably be packaged and delivered to the desk to nibble one other time with espresso.

That is the meal I’ll use, maybe trimmed somewhat, all through the Christmas season. The menu is particular, however not so particularly tied to the season that it might appear misplaced throughout the subsequent few weeks. I’d serve the pork with sauerkraut alone or halve the portions for the ginger cake and make a single-layered model, however a lot will depend upon what number of are spherical the desk. (Vegans will get the mushrooms cooked with out the butter, the chickpea mash will probably be made minus the cream, and I’ll make a salad of crisp shredded fennel, blood orange and mint. A meal that will probably be adopted by the poached pears.)

As somebody who usually avoids hefty first programs, I’ve lengthy been mulling over the best way to begin my festive meals. Ought to I go spherical an enormous plate of oysters or a picket board of gravadlax? A salad of chicory and blue cheese? Or maybe a ceviche with citrus, chilli and coriander. This yr will probably be one in every of the above, I’m truthfully unsure which but. Beginning a Christmas listing is one factor. Ending it’s one other factor altogether.

Pork with inexperienced olives and sauerkraut

I ask my butcher to bone and tie the pork loin – my very own makes an attempt are lower than good – and I feel it helps to maintain the meat unwrapped for so long as you possibly can earlier than cooking, so the pores and skin is dry. (It is going to make for higher crackling.) Moderately than roasting by the clock, I discover a meat thermometer is a sound funding, particularly for cooking pork and beef. You’ll be able to decide them up from cookware outlets.

I make the olive and lemon dressing whereas the pork is resting. The cabbage might be began when the roast pork has about 20 minutes to go. It’s a good-natured dish and can preserve heat in its pan, coated by a lid or reheated at the final minute.

Serves 6
pork loin 2kg (boned, scored and rolled weight)
olive oil 6 tbsp
garlic 3 cloves
rosemary 3 bushy sprigs

For the dressing
inexperienced olives 120g, stoned
parsley 20g
lemon juice 2 tbsp
olive oil 4 tbsp

For the cabbage
pink cabbage 1kg
olive oil 3 tbsp
juniper berries 10
yellow mustard seeds 2 tsp
cider vinegar 3 tbsp
redcurrant or different fruit jelly 3 tbsp
sauerkraut 250g

Set the oven at 200C fan/fuel mark 8. Put the pork, rolled and tied, in a roasting tin and rub with somewhat of the olive oil – simply sufficient to moisten the pores and skin. As soon as the oven is scorching sufficient, roast the pork for half-hour till the pores and skin is beginning to puff and blister.

Peel and roughly chop the garlic. Finely chop the rosemary leaves, discarding the stems. Combine the rosemary and garlic with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Take away the pork briefly from the oven and spoon the rosemary and garlic oil over the meat, then return to the oven and decrease the warmth to 160C fan/fuel mark 4. Proceed roasting for 45 minutes until its juices run clear, or till the inside temperature of the meat reaches 60C on a meat thermometer.

Make the dressing: take away the meat from the oven, cowl calmly with foil and go away in a heat place to relaxation. Put the roasting tin on the hob over a reasonable warmth. Roughly chop the inexperienced olives, finely chop the parsley and blend with the lemon juice and olive oil.

For the cabbage: lower the pink cabbage into pencil thick shreds. Heat the olive oil in a big, deep, heavy-based saucepan over reasonable warmth. Add the cabbage, juniper berries and mustard seeds and somewhat salt, then cowl tightly with a lid. Prepare dinner for 3-4 minutes until barely wilted, then flip the cabbage with kitchen tongs. Substitute the lid, and proceed cooking for one other 7-10 minutes until the cabbage is tender. Add the vinegar, prepare dinner for a minute or two, add the fruit jelly and stir by the cabbage, then add the sauerkraut and toss collectively.

Slice the roast pork and serve with spoonful of the olive dressing and the cabbage.

Mushrooms with herbed hummus

Mushrooms with herbed hummus.
Mushrooms with herbed hummus. ‘Prepare dinner the giant ones first.’ {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

A combination of mushrooms – subject, chestnut, oyster, shiitake, shimoji and cepes – is nice right here, however I’ve additionally finished it with simply subject and chestnut varieties. The tender varieties will take much less time to prepare dinner, so it’s price separating them from the bigger varieties. Except your pan is especially giant, it could be greatest to prepare dinner the giant ones first, take away them to a heat place, then prepare dinner the smaller and extra fragile varieties.

Serves 4
double cream 250ml
chickpeas 2 x 400g tins
coriander leaves, dill, parsley leaves 35g, whole weight
garlic 3 cloves
olive oil 6 tbsp
butter 40g
combined mushrooms 500g
spring onions 4

Heat the cream and drained chickpeas in a saucepan for 5 minutes over reasonable warmth. Tip them right into a meals processor and add the herb leaves, and somewhat salt and black pepper, then course of to a clean cream. Switch again to the saucepan.

Peel the garlic and flatten the cloves with the aspect of a knife or a heavy weight. Heat the olive oil and butter in a shallow pan and add the garlic cloves. Begin by including the largest mushrooms first, conserving the extra fragile and smaller varieties till the giant mushrooms are beginning to flip golden. Finely chop and add the spring onions. Stir repeatedly however fastidiously, taking care to not harm the extra fragile mushrooms.

Heat the chickpea cream over a reasonable warmth. Spoon onto a serving plate, then add the mushrooms and serve.

Poached pears with riesling

Poached pears with riesling.
Poached pears with riesling: ‘A half bottle is sufficient for this.’ {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

As a lot as I really like Christmas pudding (I might cheerfully eat it for breakfast), a refreshing dessert is welcome too. The pears – particularly the plump comice – are at their greatest proper now. In our home they’re provided with stichelton or stilton, or maybe a jagged wedge of yellow and grainy parmesan, however additionally they make a tremendous sorbet or cake. I poach the pears in sugar syrup the day earlier than, giving them time to sit back completely in the fridge. For this recipe, I shall allow them to marinate in candy wine.

You possibly can serve the pears with somewhat cream however I like the pure, easy notes of the poached pears as they’re. If candy riesling evades you, then a light-weight muscat will do properly. A half bottle is sufficient for this.

Serves 6
caster sugar 100g
water 1 litre
pears 3
lemon juice of 1
candy riesling 375ml
blackberries 150g

In a medium-sized pan – I take advantage of one about 22cm in diameter – deliver the sugar and water to the boil. Peel the pears, lower them in half from stalk to base rubbing them with lemon juice as you go. Squeeze the lemon juice into the sugar syrup, add the pears and decrease the temperature to a simmer.

Proceed cooking till the pears are tender to the level of a knife. Relying on their ripeness, this will likely take from 10-40 minutes. Test their progress repeatedly, they need to be completely comfortable however nonetheless retain their form.

Take away the pears with a draining spoon and switch to a serving bowl. Cut back the sugar syrup to 200ml, add the riesling, then pour over the pears and chill completely for a number of hours. Scatter the blackberries over the pears and serve.

Pear and ginger biscuit cake

Pear and ginger biscuit cake.
Pear and ginger biscuit cake: ‘One thing to take you time over.’ {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

That is one thing to take your time over. I selected a chilly, wet day, put the radio on and spent the entire afternoon in the heat of the kitchen, poaching pears, making biscuits and baking the cake. (I recommend you make both the cake, the biscuits or pears the day earlier than meeting.)

Do you have to fancy the cake however have much less time, you possibly can velocity the entire course of up by utilizing tinned pears – drained of their syrup – and by utilizing ready-made ginger biscuits (however not gingernuts, that are too exhausting for this).

The combination for any ginger cake is sort of liquid earlier than baking, so you will want baking tins that don’t have detachable bases – in any other case it is going to leak in the oven. If you wish to make a smaller cake, then halve all the substances, bake the cake in a single 20cm tin and pile the pears and cream filling on high of the cake.

Serves 12
For the pears
water 750ml
caster sugar 100g
lemon juice of ½
comice pears 4 (about 850g whole weight)

For the cake
self-raising flour 250g
floor ginger 2 degree tsp
combined spice ½ tsp
floor cinnamon ½ tsp
bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp
salt a pinch
agave or golden syrup 200ml
syrup from the ginger jar 2 tbsp
butter 125g
darkish muscovado 125g
stem ginger in syrup 3 lumps (about 60g)
eggs 2 giant
milk 240ml

For the filling
double cream 350ml
vanilla extract 1 tsp
ginger biscuits 90g
mascarpone 350g
darkish chocolate 95g

You will have 2 x 20cm spherical cake tins (with out detachable bases), the backside and sides lined with baking parchment, and a few baking sheets lined with baking parchment for the biscuits.

Set the oven at 160C fan/fuel mark 4. Sift the flour with the floor ginger, combined spice, cinnamon, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Pour the syrups right into a small saucepan, add the butter and the muscovado, and heat over a reasonable warmth till the butter has melted. When the combination has simmered for a minute take away from the warmth. Cube the ginger finely and add to the pan.

Break the eggs right into a bowl, add the milk and beat calmly to mix. Pour the butter and syrup combination into the flour and spices, and stir gently however shortly till no flour is seen, following instantly with the milk and eggs. Divide the combination between the cake tins, slide into the oven and bake for about 20-25 minutes till it’s calmly puffed and spongy to the contact. Depart to chill for 20 minutes in the tin, then run a palette knife round the edges and prove on to a wire cooling rack.

For the pears, put the water and sugar in medium-sized (20cm) saucepan. Add the lemon juice to the water, then deliver it to the boil. Peel the pears, slice every in half from stalk to base, then decrease them into the effervescent syrup, flip the warmth right down to a simmer and go away them to prepare dinner for 20 minutes or till they’re translucent and tender. Depart to chill in the syrup.

For the cream filling, pour the cream into a calming mixing bowl, add the vanilla extract and whisk till thick. Crush the biscuits to tough crumbs (you are able to do this in a meals processor however take care to not cut back to very tremendous crumbs, you need small nuggets of biscuit all through). Fold the mascarpone into the cream taking care to not over combine. Finely chop the chocolate and add to the filling. Chill till wanted.

To assemble the cake, place one in every of the ginger truffles on a flat serving plate. Put the pears on high of the cake in a single layer. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the pear cooking syrup over the high. Spoon one third of the chocolate crumb cream over the pears then place the second cake on high and press down firmly. Easy a second third of the crumb cream over the high and the relaxation round the sides of the cake. Refrigerate for an hour earlier than adorning and serving.

Iced spice biscuits

Iced spice biscuits.
Iced spice biscuits. {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Makes about 25-30 small biscuits
For the spice biscuits
butter 70g
gentle muscovado sugar 80g
black treacle or molasses 2 heaped tbsp
cardamon pods 8
plain flour 250g
bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp
floor cinnamon 2 degree tsp
floor ginger 1 tsp
egg yolk 1
milk 3-4 tbsp

For the icing
icing sugar 125g
lemon juice 4 tbsp

Set the oven at 160C fan/fuel mark 4. Cream the butter and sugar collectively in a mixer until gentle and fluffy. Add the molasses. Break the cardamom pods open and crush the seeds finely. Add them to the combination with the flour, bicarbonate of soda, egg yolk, cinnamon and ginger. Beat in a few tablespoons of milk, then slowly add extra till you will have reached some extent the place the combination might be rolled out like pastry. Convey the substances collectively, then roll out on a floured board, no thicker than pound coin.

Lower out 25-30 biscuits, utilizing a combination of star or snowflake cutters of various sizes, then place, barely aside, on one in every of the lined baking sheets. Place the leftover pastry items on a separate baking sheet. Bake the cut-out shapes for 12 minutes. Take away from the oven (they are going to be somewhat comfortable however will crisp on cooling) and switch to a wire rack.

When the biscuits are chilly, make the icing. Put the icing sugar right into a bowl, then beat in the lemon juice, both with a fork or utilizing a small hand whisk. Take it regular, solely utilizing sufficient to make an icing thick sufficient that it takes some time to fall from the spoon. Dip the cookies into the icing and place on waxed paper to dry. Enhance as you want with sugar crystals, meals colourings or edible gold leaf. The biscuits will retailer in a tin or hermetic container for a couple of days, although the icing might mottle barely.

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