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Nigel Slater’s 10 winter vegan and vegetarian recipes | Vegetarian food and drink

A assortment of vegetarian and vegan recipes for you this month. Ten recipes – some outdated, some new and greater than half of them vegan – that commemorate the wealth of seasonal greens, the greens and roots that make cooking at the moment of yr such a pleasure.

Vegan dishes embrace little muffins of kimchi and candy potatoes; a loaf of amaranth and chickpeas; a crunchy slaw and a dish of roast onions with miso. There’s additionally a beautiful noodle curry with coconut and greens, and couscous with harissa-spiced roast tomatoes. (Vegans will know to ruthlessly examine the labels of components comparable to kimchi, miso and vegetable inventory to examine they’re appropriate for them.)

Vegetarian recipes embrace two tarts – one with cheese pastry and mushrooms and one other with rosemary-flecked ricotta and pumpkin, and we now have a fast pasta supper too.

Pumpkin, ricotta and rosemary tart (vegetarian)

You may measure my life in pumpkin recipes, significantly savoury ones the place the sugar hit is balanced with chilli or ginger. This time, I’ve used parmesan, probably the most umami wealthy of the cheeses, to quell the sweetness, and it really works brilliantly. Particularly when combined with the resinous notes of rosemary. The pastry I favor is a butter-rich puff pastry that is available in a single sheet, measuring about 35cm x 22cm and weighing 325g.

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It is a gentle most important course if eaten with one thing on the facet – a tumble of shredded fennel and cauliflower with a dressing of lemon juice, olive oil and balsamic vinegar could be mine – however it additionally makes lunchbox addition too. Use pumpkin or butternut, it issues not, however makes positive to slice the flesh no thicker than ½cm.

Serves 6
puff pastry 1 x sheet, 325g
overwhelmed egg a bit of
pumpkin or butternut squash 650g
olive oil 3 tbsp

For the filling
ricotta 250g
full fats cream cheese 200g
parmesan 4 tbsp, grated
egg yolk 1
rosemary 2 tbsp, chopped

To complete
parmesan a bit of, grated
olive oil

Set the oven at 180C fan/fuel mark 6. Unroll the sheet of pastry and place it on a baking sheet lined with a bit of baking parchment. Rating a rectangle about 2cm in from the sting – don’t go proper via to the parchment. This may type the “hole” for the filling. Brush the sides with the overwhelmed egg and bake for 10 minutes till hyped up and frivolously colored.

Take away the pores and skin and seeds from the pumpkin or butternut squash – you ought to be left with roughly 450g of flesh. Slice thinly, every bit no thicker than ½cm. Heat the olive oil in a shallow pan, place as lots of the pumpkin slices as you possibly can into it – even with a big frying pan I can by no means prepare dinner them – then allow them to prepare dinner over a reasonable warmth for about 3 minutes until frivolously colored. Flip and frivolously brown the opposite facet, then switch them fastidiously to a plate and do the subsequent batch.

For the filling, put the ricotta in a bowl, add the cream cheese, grated parmesan and egg yolk. Add the rosemary and some grinds of the peppermill, then combine nicely.

Take away the pastry from the oven. Rating the rectangle once more and push the internal pastry down with the again of a spoon to type a shallow hole. Spoon within the filling and clean it out to the rim. Place the pumpkin slices on the floor, sprinkle a bit of parmesan and trickle very frivolously with olive oil. Bake for 25 minutes until golden, the filling barely puffed and aromatic. Depart to accept 10 minutes earlier than slicing and serving.

Roast onions, miso and sesame (vegan)

Roast onions, miso and sesame.
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

A dish of roast onions, bronze, candy and sizzling, is a kind of facet dishes I’ve taken to serving as a most important course. The inherent sweetness of their caramelised outer layers is a distinction to the deep, savoury high quality of miso, and with a mattress of brown rice this turns into a most satisfying dinner. It’s important to simmer them lengthy sufficient of their bay-scented inventory to render them on the purpose of collapse, every layer delicate and giving, earlier than placing them within the oven.

The accompanying rice bolsters them as much as a most important course, however you may equally serve them with couscous or lentils.

Serves 4
bay leaves 4
black peppercorns 6
onions 8, medium
ginger a 50g piece
sake or dry sherry 4 tbsp
chilli flakes 2 good pinches
maple or brown rice syrup 2 tbsp
gentle miso paste 4 frivolously heaped tbsp
lemon juice 3 tbsp
sesame seeds 1 tbsp

For the rice
brown or white basmati 150g
bay leaves 3
cardamom pods 6
lemon peel 5cm strip
cucumber 1
parsley 2 tbsp
rice or wine vinegar a number of drops

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Convey a deep pan of water to the boil with the bay leaves and peppercorns. Set the oven at 180C fan/fuel mark 6.

Peel the onions, decrease them into the boiling water then flip down the warmth to a simmer. Depart for 25-Half-hour, till the onions are nearly translucent and delicate sufficient to pierce effortlessly with a skewer. Carry the onions out with a draining spoon and place them, simply touching each other, in a roasting tin or baking dish.

Peel the ginger and grate to a paste on a really sharp, fine-toothed grater. Scrape the ginger right into a small bowl and stir within the sake or dry sherry, chilli flakes, syrup and miso.

Mix within the lemon juice and 4 tbsp of heat water. Pour the ensuing dressing over the onions, turning them over so they’re glossily coated. Scatter the sesame seeds over the onions. Bake within the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes, sometimes basting with the juices from the baking dish.

Wash the rice in three adjustments of heat water, swishing the rice round within the water along with your fingertips – a surprisingly pleasing job. Drain the rice, tip right into a small saucepan and canopy with sufficient water to come back 3cm above the rice. Add the bay and cardamom pods, cracking the pods open as you go, then drop within the piece of lemon peel.

Convey the rice to the boil, decrease the warmth and canopy with a good lid. Depart to simmer for 10 minutes, then take away from the warmth and go away, lid untouched, for an additional 10.

Peel and halve the cucumber, take away the central core and seeds, then minimize the flesh into matchsticks. Roughly chop the parsley leaves and toss with the cucumber. Shake over a number of drops of rice or wine vinegar.

Take away the lid to the rice and run the tines of a fork via the grains to separate them, stir the parsley via the grains, then spoon on to deep plates. Place the onions on prime, spooning any sauce over them, then scatter with the cucumber and parsley.

Citrus and cashew nut salad (vegan)

Citrus and cashew nut slaw Observer Food Monthly OFM January 2021
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

There may be a lot to be stated for a crisp refreshing salad even on an ice-cold day, if solely to distinction all of the warming, carbs-n-cheese suppers. The crunch right here comes from the beetroot, pink cabbage and celeriac, however you may use carrots or kohlrabi. (Broccoli stalks, thinly sliced, get my vote too.) It’s a most important course in my home, however would make a effective facet dish too. The dressing feels like lots of hassle. It isn’t. All the pieces simply wants a fast blast within the blender or meals processor – though I discover the feel of the cashew nuts most pleasing once I grind them utilizing a pestle and mortar, leaving them as a tough, gravelly powder. As soon as made, it’s in all probability finest to eat it the identical day.

Serves 4
grapefruit 1
orange 1 massive
pink cabbage 250g
fennel 150g
celeriac 150g
beetroot 250g

For the dressing
pink wine vinegar 2 tbsp
lime juice 3 tbsp
olive oil 75ml
gentle soy sauce 1 tbsp
ginger 35g
gentle muscovado sugar 3 tbsp
small sizzling chilli 2
cashews 75g, roasted and salted, plus a number of to complete
mint leaves 20, finely shredded
coriander leaves 20

Make the dressing: put the vinegar, lime juice, olive oil and soy in a mixing bowl. Peel the ginger and grate it finely, then add to the liquids with the sugar. Finely chop the chilli (you possibly can take away the seeds should you like a cooler dressing) and stir in. Crush the cashews to a rough, nubbly powder with a pestle and mortar (or the tip of a rolling pin), then add to the dressing with the mint leaves and the coriander leaves, torn up a bit of if they’re significantly massive. Stir the dressing and put aside.

Take away the peel and white pith from the grapefruit and orange, saving as a lot juice as you possibly can. Separate the segments with a pointy knife and add them to the dressing with any juice.

Finely shred the pink cabbage and fennel and add to the dressing. Peel the celeriac and beetroot, slice thinly, then minimize into lengthy, skinny matchsticks. Toss with the dressing, examine the seasoning and put aside for Half-hour or extra earlier than serving. Add the reserved complete cashews simply earlier than bringing the salad to the desk.

Candy potato and kimchi muffins (vegan)

Sweet potato and kimchi cakes.
Candy potato and kimchi muffins. {Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

I typically make these little muffins with candy potato alone, by which case a cautious hand is required, the combination being significantly delicate and sticky. To make them simpler to take care of I now substitute a 3rd of the candy potato with maincrop white potatoes, immediately making them much less fragile. The little muffins want Half-hour within the fridge earlier than cooking, in an effort to agency up.

I counsel you let the underside brown crisply earlier than turning – it contrasts with the delicate centre and helps them maintain collectively. crust makes them simpler to show too. You will want one thing to eat alongside, a crisp salad such because the garnet-hued roots and fruits above, or maybe a bowl of chickpeas with a dressing of lemon, olive oil and parsley.

Every time I make these I ponder if they’d be candidate for filling a burger bun, with bushy emerald watercress and a squeeze of lemon.

Makes 12, sufficient for 4
potatoes 300g
candy potatoes 600g
kimchi 100g
coriander leaves 15g
flour 3 tbsp, plus extra for rolling
groundnut oil for frying

Put a deep pan of water on to boil, place a steamer basket or colander on prime. Peel the potatoes and minimize them into massive chunks, as you would possibly for roast potatoes, then put them within the steamer basket, cowl tightly with a lid, and steam for 15-20 minutes. Peel the candy potatoes, minimize them into an identical dimension and add to the potatoes.

Take a look at the potatoes for tenderness – the candy ones needs to be brilliant orange and simply pierced with a skewer or knife level. Take away them from the warmth and go away for a couple of minutes till they’ve stopped steaming. Mash till fairly clean utilizing a meals mixer or a potato masher (however not a meals processor, which can flip them to attach).

Finely chop the kimchi and stir in. Chop the coriander leaves and stems and add to the mash with the flour. (You might be unlikely to wish pepper or salt.) Flour your palms very completely, then take a small scoop of the combination in your hand and pat gently right into a small cake. Lay on a floured baking sheet or plate, re-flour your palms and repeat till the combination is completed. You’ll have about 12 muffins.

Chill the muffins within the fridge for Half-hour. And please, don’t miss this step as a result of the muffins are fragile and they’ll collapse whenever you prepare dinner them. Heat a ½cm depth of the groundnut oil in a frying pan, then fastidiously carry the muffins, 4 at a time and fry for a minute or two over a reasonably excessive warmth till crisp on the underside. Don’t transfer them (or poke or prod them) till the underside is crisp. Now fastidiously flip the muffins over and prepare dinner the opposite facet.

As quickly because the muffins are golden, carry out with a palette knife and relaxation on a plate and preserve heat whilst you prepare dinner the remainder – I like to make use of recent oil for every batch. Serve the muffins as quickly as they’re all accomplished, maybe with a bit of extra of the kimchi on prime.

Noodles with coconut and greens (vegan)

Noodles with coconut and greens.
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Consolation and spice. Because the temperature drops, I relish these recipes that supply each the heat of spice and the pacifying observe of coconut milk. This one, a meal-in-a-bowl affair with ginger and chilli, noodles and greens, ticks each field for me. The inspiration are the soups I’ve eaten in Thailand, however the spicing is milder right here, so up the chilli content material if you want. If the lime leaves show elusive – as they so typically do – make it anyway, maybe together with the zest of a lime as an alternative. The impact is just not fairly the identical, however ok.

Serves 4
For the paste
ginger a 50g piece
garlic 2 cloves, peeled
pink chillies 3 small
lemongrass 2 massive stalks
spring onions 3, chopped
turmeric 3 tsp
recent coriander 40g, leaves and stems
groundnut or vegetable oil 2 tbsp

For the soup
shallots 3 massive
groundnut or vegetable oil 3 tbsp
vegetable inventory 500ml
coconut milk 1 x 400ml tin
makrut lime leaves 4
skinny noodles 150g
assorted greens 190g. comparable to chard and spinach
mint leaves 8g
coriander leaves 10

Make the spice paste: peel and roughly chop the ginger, then put it into the bowl of a meals processor. Add the garlic, chillies (minus their stalks), lemongrass (outer leaves discarded, the remainder roughly chopped), and the spring onions and turmeric. Course of for a number of seconds, then add the coriander and the vegetable oil. Course of for a number of seconds to a rough paste, scrape the edges down with a rubber spatula, then course of briefly once more. If the combination refuses to melt to a paste, add a tablespoon of water.

For the soup, peel the shallots and slice them in half lengthways. Heat the oil in a big casserole over a reasonable warmth, then add the shallots, minimize facet down along with a tablespoon of water, and allow them to prepare dinner for about 10 minutes, coated with a lid. Flip them infrequently and prepare dinner till nearly tender. Add the spice paste and fry with the shallots for a few minutes, then add the inventory, coconut milk and lime leaves. Depart to simmer for 10 minutes.

Put the kettle on. Put the noodles in a big heatproof jug or a big bowl and pour the boiling water over them. In the meantime, wash and trim the chard and spinach, then minimize the stalks into effective shreds and add to the soup. Place the leaves on prime of each other, roll up tightly and shred with a kitchen knife. As quickly because the stalks are tender add the leaves, then the mint and coriander leaves.

Drain the noodles, then use kitchen tongs to switch them to 4 heat bowls. Ladle the sauce over the noodles and serve.

Tomato couscous with harissa (vegan)

Tomato couscous with harissa.
{Photograph}: The Observer

A favorite of mine, even when tomatoes are out of season. (Harissa paste does a lot for a lower than elegant tomato.) It’s value mentioning that harissa pastes can range barely in warmth so I counsel beginning with a tablespoon then occurring from there, to fit your style. Making this with as many sorts of tomato as I can pay money for, the colourful scarlets and oranges convey a lot cheer to a gray winter day. The couscous, although softly cosseting when soaked with rust-red juices may very well be swapped for rice should you favor.

Serves 3-4
assorted tomatoes 750g
garlic 3 cloves, peeled and crushed
olive oil 3 tbsp
pink onion 1, medium
cumin seeds 2 tsp, frivolously crushed
coriander seeds 2 tsp, coarsely crushed
harissa paste 1 tbsp

For the couscous
vegetable inventory 500ml
quick-cooking couscous 200g
mint leaves 10g
parsley leaves 15g

Minimize the bigger tomatoes in half and place in a roasting tin, tucking within the smaller ones. Add the garlic and olive oil. Peel and slice the pink onion and add it to the tomatoes with a seasoning of salt and black pepper. Scatter the crushed cumin and coriander seeds over the tomatoes and onions. Roast at 180C fan/fuel mark 6 for 35-40 minutes till the tomatoes are delicate and the skins frivolously browned.

Convey the vegetable inventory to the boil. Place the couscous in a heat-proof bowl, then pour the boiling inventory over, cowl and go away for quarter-hour. Take away the leaves from the mint and parsley and roughly chop.

Use a fork to frivolously crush the tomatoes so the juices bleed into the pan, then stir within the harissa paste. Run a fork via the couscous to separate the grains, then stir within the chopped herbs. Serve the roast tomatoes and their juices on prime of the couscous.

Chickpeas and macaroni (vegetarian)

Chickpeas and macaroni.
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

As a lot as I really like spending time within the kitchen, I’m ever grateful for fast recipes I can knock up in minutes. This one, pasta and pulses tied up in a gentle, creamy tomato sauce, is a kind of I make again and again. It is a pacifying dish, no actual warmth or pizzazz, only a heat and cosy pasta supper as easy (nearly) as a takeaway.

Serves 2
onion 1, medium
garlic 3 cloves, crushed
olive oil 2 tbsp
tomato puree 1 tbsp
chopped tomatoes 1 x 400g tin
cinnamon ½ stick
bay leaves 3
dried chilli flakes ½ tsp
macaroni 100g
chickpeas 1 x 400g tin
double cream 100ml
parsley 2 tbsp, chopped
basil leaves 12

Peel and roughly chop the onion, then soften it in a pan with the garlic and olive oil. When the onions begin to brown, add the tomato purée, tinned tomatoes, cinnamon, bay leaves, chilli flakes and pepper and salt. Simmer for quarter-hour.

Convey a deep pan of water to the boil, salt it, then prepare dinner the macaroni for 9 minutes, till tender. Drain the macaroni. Drain the chickpeas and stir each into the tomato sauce. Simmer for five minutes, then stir within the cream.

Add the chopped parsley and the basil leaves. Divide the pasta and chickpeas between two deep bowls and serve.

Roast spiced winter roots, haricot mash

Roast spiced roots with haricot mash
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Candy root greens – parsnips, carrots and beetroot – work nicely with spices comparable to cumin and coriander. Chilli too. I used to be launched to this by the late Jane Grigson, together with her nearly legendary curried parsnip soup. Tossing the roots within the floor spices earlier than roasting lends a gentle heat to the greens, however you may add extra if you want.

Serves 4 (vegan)
garlic 2 massive cloves
cumin seeds 2 tsp
coriander seeds 2 tsp
sea salt ½ tsp
dried chilli flakes a pinch
groundnut oil 4 tbsp
beetroot 500g, small
potatoes 500g, small
carrots 8, small, slim

For the mash
haricot, cannellini or butter beans 2 x 400g tins
olive oil 2 tbsp
parsley leaves handful
lemon juice 1 tbsp

Peel and crush the garlic to a paste. Utilizing a spice mill or pestle and mortar, crush the cumin and coriander seeds to a rough powder, then combine within the salt and a number of other grinds of black pepper. Add the chilli flakes and stir within the crushed garlic and oil. Set the oven at 180C fan/fuel mark 6.

Convey a few deep pans of water to the boil. Trim the beetroot, with out breaking the pores and skin, then put them within the water and allow them to prepare dinner for 25-Half-hour, relying on their dimension, till they’re delicate sufficient to pierce simply with a skewer. Minimize the potatoes in half and add them to the second pan and boil them for quarter-hour.

Drain the beetroot and minimize them in half. If they’re massive, minimize them into wedges. Drain the potatoes. Slice the carrots in half. Toss the carrots, beetroot and potatoes within the spiced oil then switch to a roasting tin and bake for 35-45 minutes. (I like to show every one over midway via cooking in order that they get evenly browned.)

To make the mash, drain the beans and put them in a small pan, simply coated with water. Convey to the boil, then decrease the warmth and go away to simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and return the beans to the empty pan, add the olive oil, parsley leaves, a bit of black pepper and the lemon juice, then mash to a clean purée with a potato masher or meals processor.

Pile the mashed beans on a serving dish, then place the roasted spiced roots on prime and serve.

Mushroom and dill tart (vegetarian)

Mushroom and dill tart.
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

A basic tart however made with cheese pastry and a deeply savoury filling. I exploit small shimeji mushrooms for his or her flavour however buttons are good too, by which case I might slice them in half. If dill isn’t your factor, then use tarragon which has related aniseed notes, or omit the herbs altogether.

There are three distinct phases to this recipe – the pastry, the filling and the second baking, which I do know feels offputting, however its crisp pastry and silky filling is value each second of your time.

Serves 6
For the pastry
butter 90g
plain flour 150g
egg yolk 1, frivolously overwhelmed
parmesan 40g, finely grated

For the filling
double cream 400ml
parmesan rind a couple of 50g piece
small mushrooms 300g, comparable to shimeji
olive oil 3 tbsp
dill 15g
eggs 3, massive

You will want a 22cm tart tin with a detachable base.

To make the pastry, minimize the butter into cubes and rub it into the flour along with your fingertips till it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Combine within the egg yolk and parmesan, bringing the components collectively right into a agency ball of dough, including a tablespoon or two of chilly water if crucial. You are able to do this in seconds utilizing a meals processor.

Tip the dough on to a frivolously floured board and knead for 30 seconds or so (not) shaping it right into a ball as you go. Wrap in clingfilm or greaseproof paper and chill within the fridge for Half-hour.

Whereas the dough chills, make the filling. Pour the cream right into a medium-sized saucepan, add the parmesan rind and produce to the boil. Take away the cream from the warmth instantly when it begins to boil, then cowl with a lid and put aside.

Minimize the mushrooms into small items. In a small frying pan, heat the oil then fry the mushrooms for 4 or 5 minutes, till barely sticky. Chop the dill and toss with the mushrooms and put aside.

Take away the dough from the fridge and tenderly roll right into a disc massive sufficient to line the tart case. Press the pastry into the sides, patching it the place crucial. Make sure there are not any tears or holes. Chill for 20 minutes, permitting the pastry to loosen up. Set the oven at 180C fan/fuel mark 6 and place an upturned baking sheet on the center shelf to warmth up.

Place a sheet of baking paper or foil on prime of the pastry, fill with baking beans and slide into the preheated oven on prime of the nice and cozy baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes, then fastidiously take away the parchment and beans and return to the oven for an additional 5 minutes till dry to the contact. Decrease the warmth to 160C fan/fuel mark 4.

Break the eggs right into a bowl and beat gently, then add the cream (eradicating the parmesan rind). Season with salt and pepper, add the fried mushrooms, then spoon into the tart case and bake for 25 minutes.

Chickpea and amaranth loaf (vegan)

Chickpea and amaranth loaf.
{Photograph}: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

This began life as a stuffing, however recipes transfer on and what was as soon as cooked inside a goose is now a dish in its personal proper. As a lot as I like a nut loaf, this softer model is cheaper to make and properly balanced with a touch of sweetness from the dried fruits. You can also make the combination a day or extra prematurely. It’s going to freeze, too. Prepare dinner it in a 20cm x 12cm parchment-lined loaf tin, then let it relaxation for 20 minutes earlier than spooning or slicing.

You want one thing with this. I’ve served it with spinach, cooked rapidly in a sizzling, coated pan and some spoons of vegetable inventory, or you may make a sauce for it. Mushroom maybe or one thing spicier with tomatoes and chillies.

Sufficient for six
onions 3, medium
olive oil 7 tbsp
garlic 4 cloves
floor cumin 2 tsp
floor coriander 2 tsp
gentle chilli powder 2 tsp
amaranth 175g
chickpeas 1 x 400g tin
dried figs 75g
dried apricots 75g
parsley 10g

Peel and finely chop the onions. Heat 3 tbsp of the olive oil in a deep pan, add the onions and allow them to prepare dinner over a reasonable warmth for 15-20 minutes till they’re delicate and pale gold. Take care to not brown them. Peel and finely chop the garlic, stir it in, then add the cumin, coriander, chilli and a bit of black pepper.

Convey a medium pan with 400ml of water to the boil, then rain within the amaranth and let it simmer, partially coated, for quarter-hour. Drain utilizing a effective sieve. Put the pan again on the warmth, add the chickpeas and their liquor and heat completely. Chop the figs and apricots. Pull the leaves from the parsley. Take away the chickpeas from the warmth then purée with the parsley leaves and remaining olive oil utilizing a meals processor. Set the oven at 180C fan/fuel mark 6.

Mix the chickpea and parsley purée with the drained amaranth, dried fruits, onions and garlic. Switch to the loaf tin, smoothing the floor and taking care to push the stuffing into the corners. Bake for 25-Half-hour.

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