Finding a slow but steady rhythm: a self-guided skiing tour through Norway’s forests | Norway holidays

Winter storms within the hills can change the most effective of plans. Exterior the door of the tiny Norwegian touring cabin, snow is blowing sideways and drifting throughout our tracks. Wreaths of mist filter the encircling timber into charcoal smudges.

Strolling to the woodshed, not to mention a lengthy day travelling on skis with heavy rucksacks, appears unappealing. So we throw one other log into the woodburner and escape the playing cards and Kindles to attend out the climate.

Norway skiing trip

My spouse and I are in Sandfløten, a small hut within the woods within the mountains east of Lillehammer. The plan on this quick tour is to cross an space of ungroomed ski paths to hyperlink up with huts on the managed cross-country ski trails across the resort of Sjusjøen – round 4 days’ travelling in complete.

With a tight schedule, a misplaced day means a change of plans: we’ll now retrace our route over two days through the Målia hut to our start line.


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We’re on our first tour collectively on backcountry skis, heavier metal-edged cross-country skis. Whereas we had each completed cross-country day journeys prior to now, and I’d been touring on Alpine skis, that is our first multi-day journey on Nordic touring gear.

The concept was born a couple of months earlier, after we spent Christmas in Oslo and went cross-country skiing from a metro station on the outskirts out into the forest. So we’d joined the Norwegian Trekking Association (the DNT), which runs a community of greater than 500 huts, and deliberate to come back again and ski from hut to hut.

The author sets off from a forest hut.
The creator units off from a forest hut. {Photograph}: Peter Beaumont

The plan is to journey gentle. Take the practice from Oslo and a bus to our start line. Then depart a change of garments and our ski baggage at a lodge in Hamar. Every little thing else – dehydrated meals, sleeping baggage, a collapsible snow shovel, dry garments for the hut – will go within the rucksacks.

We plotted the route for ease and security, following well-travelled components of the Hedmarksvidda, an space of low mountain moorland dotted with hamlets and crossed by roads.

Our start line is the small ski station at Budor. From the trailhead, the skiing might be all uphill at first till we hit a rolling plateau.

We clip into the skis and kick off, the waxed bases gripping as we set off uphill, rapidly warming up, and discovering a slow but steady rhythm. After a whereas the timber skinny out into a rolling white panorama dotted with small copses, with increased fells seen within the distance.

On the trail in perfect weather.
On the path in good climate. {Photograph}: Peter Beaumont

The primary descents, with rucksacks pulling our centres of gravity backwards, are a little tense, but every thing is working. At a crossroads we meet a wiry skier in his mid-60s who plans to ski 50km that day. We’re a lot much less formidable, aiming for the Målia, a half-day’s journey away.

The DNT’s huts are available in three courses: catered, the place scorching meals are served; semi-catered like Målia, the place there may be a larder and meals is purchased on an honesty system; and uncatered, the place there may be cooking fuel, firewood and beds. A grasp key, equipped for a deposit, unlocks the entire cabins.


We attain an empty hut, let ourselves in and lightweight the range to heat it up and begin drying our equipment, damp from the day’s efforts. This hut sleeps 10 and might be busy in Norway’s winter faculty holidays in regular instances – but not final winter, within the throes of the pandemic. (It’s understood that guests to huts that don’t want reserving can sleep on the ground.)

The solar-powered hut batteries are full, which implies there’s electrical gentle and we will cost our telephones and GPS. We prepare dinner a meal and settle all the way down to learn. After darkish, one other visitor arrives together with her canine, who sleeps in a crate supplied in one of many rooms.

The hut’s interior.
The huts’ interiors are easy but heat and cosy. {Photograph}: Peter Beaumont

The following day takes us over hillier terrain, downhill at first after which a climb to a small hamlet and earlier than a descent to an icy highway. From right here the path is more durable to the following hut, the uncatered shelter at Sandfløten. The unmade path leads through dense woods throughout hidden stream beds and tripping roots, marked sometimes by paint blazes which can be straightforward to overlook.

We’re following the map, GPS and a few previous ski tracks sometimes. Night is falling and the hut, after we attain it, is seen solely after we are nearly on it, a darkish dice among the many timber. The final customer, we see from the guestbook, was right here two weeks in the past.

Ski tracks near Målia.
Ski tracks close to Målia. {Photograph}: Løten Kommune

There’s extra work to do right here. The hut’s door and the trail to the woodshed and bathroom want shovelling. The cooking fuel canister and spare are each empty, which implies boiling water for our dehydrated meals requires heating it from melted snow, a laborious course of. But it’s heat and cosy inside.

We go for a night ski through the woods across the hut, making our personal tracks throughout the snow-covered ponds and frozen marshes.

When it comes, the storm begins gently. The morning of the third day ought to take us through untracked woods and over a small cross. The mist creeps in after which the primary flurries of snowfall. The climate worsens rapidly and the timber are dim in entrance of us. We may navigate through the forest but choose to show again to Sandfløten. Quickly there’s wind and a heavy fall of snow. As we’re sleeping, a heat entrance passes over, bringing rain, adopted by one other freeze.

Countryside near Lillehammer.
Countryside close to Lillehammer. {Photograph}: Picture Professionals GmbH/Alamy

Retracing our steps in direction of Målia, we encounter difficult situations. Decrease down the snow is moist and heavy. As we climb up once more we discover recent drifts which have frozen stable like hummocks of ice-cream, fairly but slippery and really tough to ski. What had been comparatively straightforward on the way in which out is now exhausting. At instances the skis come off and we stroll probably the most difficult sections.

The final day is kinder, with a dusting of recent snow. As now we have breakfast, the track-making machine passes the hut, repairing the path to Budor. The skiing is nice as we come again over the plateau to a combination of darkish clouds and sunshine that lights up a silvery panorama.

The ultimate lengthy descent to a lunch of pancakes and occasional within the cafe is quick and simple, and we take into consideration a scorching bathe, clear garments, a lodge mattress and the practice again to Oslo within the morning. We’re drained but have a sense of accomplishment. The reminiscence of the woods round Sandfløten with solely the sound of the wind and birds calling will linger for a very long time.

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