All change at Bottega Veneta: designer Daniel Lee moves on | Fashion

Daniel Lee, the designer credited with revitalising the posh trend label Bottega Veneta is leaving the model.

An announcement saying the information says it’s a “joint choice to finish their collaboration”. However it’s a shock to the style business. Lee, who joined Bottega Veneta in July 2018, has rapidly made it one of many world’s hottest manufacturers. Throughout his tenure, designs had been worn by Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Mary J Blige, and equipment together with the “pouch” bag and woven leather-based “Lido” sandals grew to become extremely sought-after and far imitated. Gross sales rose 2.2% to almost €1.2bn (£1bn) in 2019 and stored rising in 2020, regardless of the remainder of the posh market falling by 23%. Within the third quarter of 2021, revenues rose 8.9% yr on yr.

Influencer Jessica Wang with the pouch bag at New York fashion week in 2019.
Influencer Jessica Wang with the pouch bag at New York trend week in 2019. {Photograph}: Christian Vierig/Getty Photos

Fashion’s hearsay mill has already steered numerous causes behind the cut up. Lee beforehand labored at Celine underneath Phoebe Philo and, with Philo’s personal model making its much-anticipated debut subsequent yr, business insiders are speculating he could also be becoming a member of her. “Welcoming all theories,” wrote Food plan Prada on its Instagram post announcing the news. “Ours? LVMH has poached him again to work underneath Phoebe Philo’s yet-to-debut eponymous model lol.”

Ladies’s Put on Day by day suggests Lee’s methods of working had been troublesome, with a lot of employees members leaving Bottega Veneta. It quotes a supply saying: “There’s no denying his expertise, however on a private degree, dealing with relations is one other matter – additionally given his working hours, usually at night time. So many individuals left, it was a revolving door.” A presentation in Detroit final month, and the stress concerned placing it collectively, could be the occasion that led to Lee leaving the model.

Models on the runway for Bottega Veneta’s AW20 collection, designed by Lee
Fashions on the runway for Bottega Veneta’s AW20 assortment, designed by Lee. {Photograph}: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Photos

Teo van den Broeke, Fashion Director at GQ, additionally speculated that the working tradition could be the perpetrator. “Did one thing untoward occur throughout the ethereal ateliers of Bottega Veneta’s By way of Privata Ercole Marelli headquarters in Milan?” he wrote. “Chances are high we’ll by no means know, however there’s little doubt {that a} seismic occasion occurred with the intention to precipitate such change at such velocity.”

Lee’s Bottega Veneta had a disruptive strategy to communication. Social media accounts, now a given for luxurious manufacturers, have been deleted by Bottega Veneta at the beginning of 2021. Whereas this was hailed as radical – and has since been copied by other brands – different pivots have been much less profitable. Bottega Veneta didn’t interact with digital trend reveals in the course of the pandemic, and has since employed invite solely salon-style displays in London, Berlin and Detroit. An after-party in Berlin in April – throughout lockdown within the metropolis – was criticised on social media. “That is so fucking immoral, we’re in a MF lockdown right here in Berlin,” wrote influencer Loona Hamilton.

Lee with Mary J Blige in Detroit last month
Lee with Mary J Blige in Detroit final month {Photograph}: Craig Barritt/Getty Photos for Bottega Veneta

Within the model assertion saying the cut up, François-Henri Pinault, the chairman of Kering, the posh group that owns Bottega Veneta, mentioned: “I’m very grateful to Daniel for having introduced his ardour and vitality to Bottega Veneta. His singular imaginative and prescient made the Home’s heritage related for at the moment and put it again to the centre of the style scene. I want to personally thank him for the distinctive chapter that he has written within the lengthy historical past of Bottega Veneta.” Lee commented: “My time at Bottega Veneta has been an unbelievable expertise. I’m grateful to have labored with an distinctive and gifted crew and I’m without end grateful to everybody who was a part of creating our imaginative and prescient.”

Whereas the assertion ends with a word that “a brand new inventive organisation for the Home will probably be introduced quickly”, it’s unclear who will take Lee’s place. Ladies’s Put on Day by day recommend that the model would possibly promote a member of the design crew, akin to design director Matthieu Blazy. This technique has been employed at Gucci, one other Kering model. Alessandro Michele, beforehand a part of the design crew, has had nice success since changing into inventive director in 2015.

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